Read about Ron & Viv's journey so far through Africa - Northern KENYA to Moyale - Ethiopian Border, late July 2007.
Kenya
Viv with our very friendly and helpful taxi driver, Peter, in Nairobi.
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Rrolling plains of wheat – with a few Thompson Gazelles grazing in the fields - you won't find them in Australia!
Viv looking at the Brown River (aptly named)
Our camp, with our guards under the tree.
Headed further north, now traveling in remote, dry desert country.
Ron & Neil looking at the radiator and deciding how to fix it; Ron getting the ‘hole' ready to fill – the liquid ‘steel' worked a treat – to date!!; headed further north, now traveling in remote, dry desert country.
A group of camels being herded out to graze (we saw lots and lots of camels and goats).
AFRICA TRIPLate July - early August, NORTHERN KENYA
Back into Kenya and Lake Baringo
That rain put paid to our plans of driving around the mountain (the dirt road becomes impassable), so we headed along the blacktop to the Kenya Border at Malaba. Backtracking we got to Eldoret and then pushed on to the small village of Iten, perched high on the side of the African Rift valley at over 8,000 feet. From there the road winds down into the rift and is a very spectacular but slow drive. At one stage we were driving thru pelting rain that turned to hail on the higher slopes.
It was getting towards 6pm as we entered the Lake Baringo Reserve and paid our entry fee – KSh500 for the vehicle and the two of us. Headed to Roberts Camp, which is delightfully located on the edge of the lake – we had been here once before – 23 years ago. There's a large grassy area, mown by the hippos that feed on it each night, shaded by acacia trees. It is popular and there were four overland trucks in as well as a number of private vehicles. Clean long drop dunnies, good cold water showers, a pleasant bar and restaurant as well as a pool available in the resort next door (at KSh200) make for a top spot. Camping costs about A$7 a head.
The bird life here is very good and we enjoyed a lazy day around camp watching the antics of the silly looking hornbills (think ‘Woody Woodpecker' – but dumber) that were either trying to admire themselves in the mirror, sliding down a half open window or hopping over an termite mound which they broke into to eat the termites. There were also crocs close to camp and of course the hippos which spent the day in the water after their escapades around the camp during the dark hours.
While Neil and Helen stayed at Lake Baringo, Viv and Ron headed for Nairobi – OOOH we do love the place – to get the fuel injection pump changed. Yep, the fuel system is still not right!
Got stopped at the same police roadblock on the A104 about 20km from the heart of the city, where Neil had to pay a bribe to get away a couple of weeks back. Forewarned is forearmed they say and the conversation went something like:
Policeman: Good day sir – you have broken the laws of this country and you must pay!
Me and Viv: What law?
Policeman: You were speeding and the fine is KSh2000
Me and Viv: Foohee. We get passed by every crazy taxi driver and lunatic bus driver and we do not speed – I use my GPS to monitor my speed and I do not speed ! Smiling, laughing, thinking, Asshole !
Policeman: Your fine is KSh2000 and tomorrow you go to jail!
Ron: Bullshit (or words to that affect) – we were not speeding (In chorus!)
Policeman: You pay me KSh2000 and then tomorrow you go to jail
Viv and Ron in chorus: Bullshit we are not paying you anything ! We weren't speeding ! (Smiling still!)
Policeman: What have you got for me from Cameroon?
Viv and Ron in chorus: Australia mate!
Policeman: What have you got for me from Australia?
Nothing - we have given it away already ! (Viv)
Policeman: What is that ? (pointing to the video camera - bad blue having that out at a police roadblock). Give that to me for a look !
You must be bloody joking mate …. No way! (Viv again, smiling …. She is very good)
Policeman: Sooo, I forgive you …. What can you give me from Cameroon?
Viv and Ron in chorus again: Australia mate!
Policeman: So what can you give me from Australia?
(Viv, quick thinking, again): Do you have kids?
Policeman: Yes I have two girls.
(Viv again): Oh, that's nice. Here's a knitted cap my mum knitted with her own two hands and it comes all the way from Australia.
He looks at the pretty hats, takes them, wants my Akubra – ‘No bloody way mate that is mine! (Viv and Ron in chorus again).
Policeman: You can go - Welcome to Kenya.
Viv and Ron in chorus again: Have a Nice day! Goodbye! (Smiling, thinking, Asshole!!!)
Pity he wasn't like the majority of the police we had encountered at many roadblocks throughout Kenya – who were generally pretty good and no problem – some downright nice. One bad egg makes it hard on the rest of them!!
Back in Nairobi
Back in Nairobi, at Jungle Junction (JJs), we organized ourselves to have the vehicle in at the repair place early the next day, which Chris, the owner of JJs, had recommended. We called Peter, our taxi driver, (ph on 0721 556 511) again, and he was very pleased to hear from us, and organized for him to pick up Viv the following morning (Monday), drop her off at the internet place so she could get some new web pages up, and then continue into town to pick Ron up from the repair place.
We think we have actually found a place that knows what they are doing with a diesel engine. Field & Industrial Technical Services, in Lusaka Road, Nairobi. Ron feels very confident that they actually knew what they were doing and after rechecking a few things, just to make sure, they finally removed the fuel pump and it was damaged. We probably got a really bad gut of fuel, maybe even before we left Australia, as the vehicle hasn't really run as well as it should since arriving. Even so, the fuel in Africa, as we know, is notorious for being bad, so more bad fuel exacerbated the problem.
Viv did a decent shop, trying to get as many supplies as we can possibly fit in the car, before entering Ethiopia and Sudan, where there aren't any real supermarkets, and what there is (as far as western food is concerned) is expensive.
Out of Nairobi - heading north
We got away from Nairobi and headed thru Thika (yep, the same Thika as in the acclaimed book, The Thorn Trees of Thika ), which is darm near an outer suburb of Nairobi these days.
We passed thru' Nyeri but we couldn't see much as it was very overcast, foggy and raining – the sides of the road in the town being muddy and most of the people either slopping thru' the mud and water in gumboots or doing the best they could. There was a big mountain (Mt Kenya – the 2nd highest in Africa!) to our east somewhere but you wouldn't know it and we certainly couldn't see it. The area is a rich farming area though growing everything from mangos to pineapple and maize to rhubarb.
We climbed to about 6,000' and leveled out on rolling grasslands seemingly burnt dry by frost (or in a rainshadow) as the area wasn't green at all, while the heavy cultivation thinned a lot to just small paddocks of maize. Passing thru Nanyuki, which is home to a British Army jungle training unit, we climbed further to above 8,000' and into rolling plains of wheat, some paddocks with sheep and a few stands of gum trees – it was excellent Aussie farmland. The traffic had thinned a lot to so it was most enjoyable driving. The clouds thinned to the west and north and we had a vista overlooking a manicured plain dotted with peaks and hills. Stopping for lunch we saw a small group of Thompson gazelles in the wheat stubble opposite.
Quite quickly the road turned north and we dropped quickly (over 6000 feet) in a few km. The countryside changed dramatically from lush green farmland to semi desert and thorn scrub with cattle and sheep grazing. Got to Isiolo and drove straight thru this town which is a little dusty and dry after the verdancy … and mud … we have just come thru.
Shaba National Reserve
As we headed north the country dried out quickly. We passed a few Kenyan army bases – Engineers and Artillery before we turned off the road just as the village of Archers Post came into view. A short drive – it had rained here the previous night as there was water over the road – and we got to the gate of Shaba National Reserve . This reserve along with Samburu NR and Buffalo Springs NR cluster around Archer Post and make up an interesting destination in their own right. Being semi desert country the wildlife isn't as prolific as down in the Mara, but it is still quite good with some unique animals to see. These include gerenuk, reticulated giraffe, Grevvy's zebra and Beisia Oryx – all superbly adapted to the desert country.
We booked in. Neil and Helen had arrived here the previous afternoon so we knew we had to go to Acacia Camp and pick up our two guards at the gate. Campers in the parks require guards as the area does have a fair amount of banditry and cattle rustling. Our guards – rangers really – Golo, who was the older and could speak a fair amount of English and, Abdirashid, who spoke only a smattering, jumped up on the roof and away we went. These two guys had been rangers for about seven years and come from the Borena (sometimes spelt Borana), which inhabit the northern border of Kenya and Ethiopia.
We met Neil and Helen as they were on their way back to camp from visiting Joy Adamson's camp (yeah, the Born Free Joy) which was in the east of the park while the site of her camp is now a resort.
That evening we enjoyed a couple of game drives and a pleasant night camped under a big flat-topped acacia tree.
Checked out the resort, fuelled up (paid with mastercard - what a novelty!!) and then had morning tea. This resort is perched above the river and is delightfully set-up, with a clear spring feeding a creek, which flows thru' and around the resort, before dropping into the churned up water and mud of the river. By all accounts the river dries to a trickle but never completely - it would be a life saver. However, the area does have a lot of fresh water springs and our Acacia Camp was near one, although it didn't flow as clearly as some we saw in the park. In fact, as we had arrived at our camp, a group of elephants appeared coming down the hill – they had been to the spring for a drink. Neil and Helen who had arrived earlier, had a close up encounter! Next morning on their way to the resort they had another encounter with a group of stroppy elephants that meant Neil had to back up – quickly!
The road north to Marsabit and onto the Ethiopian Border
Passed thru Archers Post which is a small dusty village, each side of the road for a couple of hundred metres being lined with shops, stalls and people bustling about. There were a mix of tribes here – of Samburu and Borena with some in their full regalia. We didn't stop though because it would of meant more hassles with a mass of people wanting to sell you something, guide you somewhere, pinch something, beg something from you, or demand it! It does become wearing and is why photographing people is such a hassle.
Cruised up the road which was a little rough but wasn't really bad. We easily maintained 40-60kph nearly the whole way. The country was dry thorn bush scrub country but in patches where it had rained recently there was a bit of green pick. In all we passed thru about 8 villages between Archers Post and Marsabit, three or four of them in the last 30-40km before we got to Marsabit. The village of Laisamis , which gets a name on the map – probably because it does have a police post and a road block. Yarned to the policeman there, did a quick survey – ‘where have you come from; where are you going, thank you'.
Stopped just north of the village and had some lunch and found I had a radiator leaking water. Topped up and pushed on for 20km where we checked it again to find it was pouring out. Decided to get towed all the way to Marsabit. Set up a chain and tree protector strap and away we went cruising at 25-35kph. No great drama on the way. Passed a few herdsmen, all armed with spears, some with a rifle as well; one old guy with an old .303.
As we got closer to Marsabit the country began to get higher and once we were over 3000' became appreciably more milder, more vegetated and better watered – with more people. We were in the park boundariesbut there were a few villages alongside the road.
Marsabit is a typical African village with a few stalls along the edge of the road, a few tired shop fronts, a couple of fuel servos, a post office, a bank away from the main street plus a number of ‘guest houses' and ‘cafes'. Amongst the dirt (that turns to mud after any rain) there is the rubbish, goats, a few cows and even a kid or two. But this town, perched as it is at 4,000' or more is on a relatively lush island amongst the flat dry desert that is only 10-20km away. Here there are trees that are green instead of the dried up sticks further down on the flat country, while the farmers can grow the odd crop of maize and graze and even fatten cattle.
In Marsabit it took a while to find our way to Henry's Place (GPS 2°20'48”N 37°58'00”E), which is not signposted at all. You're hard pushed to find it - it is on the south side of town, to the west of the main road; take the side road to the Catholic Pastoral Care Guest House and veer left. You'll end at a yard that looks like a construction yard – it is! It is also the entrance to Henry's Place, Henry being an ex-Swiss guy who came here 30 years ago. The camp is down the back, past the cows and barns and has hot showers, clean toilets, flat ground for a camp, a pleasant shelter for a dining room and delightful water. Cost A$5/head. It also has … wait for this … a bakery … which cooks great bread every day! Henry can also help you out with info and the like to the town, the roads north, south, east or west. Just what we required!
Next day was spent fixing the 25mm diameter hole in the bottom tank of the radiator. Being an all-alloy tank, ‘Liquid Steel', a bit of alloy plate and some rivets worked a treat.
Next day we got the right road (the map in the guidebook was wrong!) and headed for Moyale. Stopped at the police check point on the edge of town and then again at another further out where we had to fill in the ‘out' book, checking the ‘No escort' column – as did nearly all the vehicles heading north.
Passed the edge of a large volcanic crater – there are a few amongst these ranges and a couple are very big – and as we descended the country rapidly changed to thorn bush and then to near barren gibber like country – although the rocks covering the surface of the ground were bigger than ‘gibbers'.
Stopped to photograph a few mobs of camels and then a family group – grandfather with a camel, father, son and two daughters. Filled up their water bottles (about 3 litres total) and gave the kids some popcorn and pens. They were happy enough, although the old man seemed on a mission and didn't stop for too long.
Viv wasn't too happy with these stops – she wanted to get to Moyale and had read too much about how dangerous it was in this northern part of Kenya! It is a lawless part of the country with a lot of stock rustling and banditry going on and while the guidebooks and many travellers had said you travel in a military convoy north of Marsabit, our host Henry, who travels the road regularly advised it wasn't necessary and that any robbery was between locals and not aimed at tourists. Then when the police at Marsabit let us thru without the bat of an eye we thought it must be pretty safe.
As we approached one fairly large village of you could see dust clouds moving across the barren landscape. Stirred by mobs of goats and camels the villagers were taking their stock out to graze – anything close to the village was bare barren earth and if it wasn't desert before it certainly fast heading that way under the pressure of thousands of goats and camels.
Further north the ‘gibber country' improved with grass sprouting amongst the covering of rocks. We started to see mobs of cattle as well and they looked like they were in good condition. The road had been rocky and rough but we had cruised along at 40-60kph easily. As we approached Turbi the road improved greatly and while it didn't stay that good for long it was better without most of the rocks. Mind you if it was wet it would be a very muddy and boggy trip.
At the small village of Turbi , where the road swings further east, we were stopped at a police checkpoint and were asked, strongly, ‘for something to remember you with' . When we said we had nothing it was pointed out that we could buy a ‘soda from the store across the road' . Viv came out with the ‘knitted caps for the kids' routine and the barrier was dropped.
As the road swung more easterly to parallel the border, the country changed too and became much more scrubbier – dense scrub for much of the way with lots of Kirks dik dik scittering across the road or watching us intently from the edge of the scrub before rushing off into the bush.
Just as you think you are getting close to Moyale the road does a sharp turn south and heads away from the border as it skirts the eastern extention of the mountain range we had been paralleling. Then the road swings sharply north and climbs into the hills bringing with it more vegetation and with that more cattle and people. Just before the border town we passed thru a village and again went thru a police check point. Then as we entered Moyale a couple of km further on there was another police check point where they wanted passport details. The town is typically African but is set amongst the hills and is much bigger than what most would have you believe.
Moyale and the Ethiopian Border
The Kenya wildlife camp (GPS 3°31'09”N 39°3'5”E) is situated on the west side of town and offers basic camping facilities – a cold shower, flush toilets and a flat bit of grass to put a tent or park your vehicle – for just A$5/person/night. There's not much else as far as camping is concerned in town.
Next morning we quickly passed thru the border control and into Ethiopia – the country we initially wanted to see more than any other on this trip, but we had heard so many different stories (namely on the theme ‘Great country, pity about the people' ) we wasn't so sure. We shall see!
Return to main Trip diary page
Our camp at Roberts Camp at Lake Baringo, Kenya.
Re-crossing the equator.
The place, Field & Industrial Technical Services, in Lusaka Road, Nairobi, where the vehicle finally got fixed.
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We are heading into the raining season and the Brown River through the park was flowing well.
There are some different animals within this desert region, such as the beautiful reticulated giraffe and long necked Gerenuk.
A couple of local lads we passed along the road north. So much easier taking pics if you get one or two on the road, without being inundated by hordes or people all wanting money for a photo.
Passed a very large crater on the side of the road after leaving Marsabit .
Stopped to photograph this family group and offer then some ‘popcorn' and fill their water bottles – the kids loved the popcorn!! which Viv had made up.
The local ‘taxi' from the Ethiopia border into Kenya – goods/supplies in the bottom of the truck, passengers on top!!
