AFRICA TRIP
Late February - Early March 2007
South African Battlefields
Back in South Africa we headed for the famous battlefields in
Kwa Zulu Natal, where we stopped just north of Dundee at Battlefields
Country Lodge on Springfield farm (GPS 28°7'56”S 30°17'22”E – ph:
082 976 3447; www.battlefieldslodge.co.za). This was a well set-up and
comfortable lodge that provided a range of accommodation as well as a
little camping. The lawn was thick and soft and the facilities included
a bar/restaurant and pool – the cost was R60 for the vehicle and R10/person
Next day we headed to Blood River and its fantastic
monument of bronze wagons, circled in the laager where the famous battle
was fought. We watched the movie - it's possible that the story that
surrounds it is more legend than fact, but none-the-less this Boer-Zulu
battle was an important point in South African history. There's camping here
but it's not a great set-up.
From there we cruised south on a dirt road thru a near continuous
scattering of huts with their adjoining subsistent farmland to hit
the black top north of Nqutu which we reached soon
after. While Fred was getting fuel we took a few pics – one of the
shop keeper and her young child – I ended up buying lollies and giving
a couple back to them while the rest were given to a few young kids
wandering past. A couple of women who saw us taking pics came up and
wanted their photo taken, which we did. They were very pleasant and
wished us well before wandering off. They told us it was a busy market
day as the market would soon close for the weekend so everyone was
getting supplies. The young man filling Fred's car wanted him to get
a job in the USA!
Headed to Isandhlwana (pronounced Issan-dwana )
and stopped at the info centre before heading over to this Anglo-Zulu
battlefield – which was the greatest defeat ever suffered by a British
force against a native Army. It's a poignant place with the white piles
of stones marking the graves of the fallen British troops, scattered
over the battlefield.
It was bloody hot and after checking the monuments erected to the
fallen we headed to Rorkes Drift (GPS 28°21'27”S 30°32'08”E)
and had lunch under a couple of sparsely shady trees just inside the
entrance to this famous battlefield, which saw 11 VC's being awarded
to the 100 odd men who repulsed an attack by thousands of Zulu – the
day after the British defeat at Isandhlwana. Checked the great little
museum out and then walked around the site and the cemetery. A great
monument to the Zulu who died here is just up the hill from where the
hospital stood. This was a bronze of dozens of Zulu shields stacked
on top of one another in a oval shape of about 15', while a leopard
lay on top. Behind the leopard was a tree, which had been planted in
the centre of the pile of shields. It was a great looking monument
and had been erected in 2006.
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